Why the Dolphin Fuse Chart Deserves Its Own Page
A fuse chart is the most-looked-up and least-well-documented page in any workshop manual. In the BYD Dolphin’s case the problem is worse than usual: the table is laid out beside the diagram in the owner’s handbook, and a lot of what circulates online under the name “BYD Dolphin fuse box diagram” is actually lifted from a different model. Getting the wrong chart costs an afternoon.
The Dolphin has two fuse boxes. The under-hood PDB carries 53 numbered positions; the dashboard PDB carries 31. This page reproduces both nameplates in full, then flags the handful of positions that actually matter when you are chasing a fault.
Where the Two Boxes Are — BYD Dolphin Fuse Box Location
The BYD Dolphin under-hood PDB sits in the rear-left of the engine compartment. To open it you first remove the trim, then press the latch. The handbook is specific about the removal order — the trim comes off before the latch is pressed, not after.
The BYD Dolphin dashboard PDB is the in-cabin box. Both boxes carry fuse labels that map each position to the electrical component it protects, which is why a photograph of the lid is worth taking before you start pulling fuses.
Under-Hood PDB — Complete Position List
| No. | Amps | Protected component or circuit |
|---|---|---|
| F1 | 60 | PTC3 |
| F2 – F8 | — | Not used |
| F9 | 15 | HV all-in-one controller |
| F10 | 15 | Left combination headlight |
| F11 | 15 | Right combination headlight |
| F12 | 7.5 | Compressor |
| F13 | 10 | Electrically controlled cooling water pump |
| F14 | 10 | Motor controller |
| F15 | 7.5 | Integrated thermal management module |
| F16 | 60 | PTC2 |
| F17 | — | Not used |
| F18 | 30 | PTC1 |
| F19 | — | Not used |
| F20 | 7.5 | Right daytime running light |
| F21 | 30 | Front wiper |
| F22 | 30 | Rear defroster |
| F23 | 15 | Auxiliary power |
| F24 | 15 | USB |
| F25 | 10 | USB |
| F26 | — | Not used |
| F27 | 15 | Auxiliary power |
| F28 | 15 | USB |
| F29 | — | Not used |
| F30 | 60 | ESC |
| F31 | 20 | Towing power supply |
| F32 | — | Not used |
| F33 | 15 | HV all-in-one controller |
| F34 | 15 | Steering wheel heater |
| F35 | 5 | Rear body control module |
| F36 | 5 | Instrument cluster |
| F37 | 7.5 | ETC |
| F38 | 10 | SRS |
| F39 | 5 | ADAS |
| F40 | — | Not used |
| F41 | 5 | EPS |
| F42 | 5 | ESC |
| F43 | — | Not used |
| F44 | 60 | ESC |
| F45 | 40 | Blower |
| F46 – F47 | — | Not used |
| F48 | 10 | Rear wiper |
| F49 | 200 | Battery |
| F50 | 70 | CEPS |
| F51 | — | Not used |
| F52 | 60 | Electric fan |
| F53 | — | Not used |
Dashboard PDB — Complete Position List
| No. | Amps | Protected component or circuit |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | 30 | Universal controller |
| 02 | 30 | Towing power supply |
| 03 | 5 | Brake light switch |
| 04 | 10 | Diagnosis port |
| 05 | 5 | Instrument cluster |
| 06 | 10 | Alcohol interlock |
| 07 | 5 | Gearshift panel |
| 08 | 20 | Infotainment system |
| 09 | 15 | External amplifier |
| 10 | 10 | ADAS |
| 11 | 7.5 | Combination switch |
| 12 | 30 | Rear body control module |
| 13 | 30 | Rear body control module |
| 14 | 10 | CCS |
| 15 | 20 | Left front window |
| 16 | 20 | Right front window |
| 17 | 20 | Left rear window |
| 18 | 20 | Right rear window |
| 19 | 5 | E-Call |
| 20 | 7.5 | Wireless charger |
| 21 | 30 | Left front power seat |
| 22 | 30 | Right front power seat |
| 23 – 31 | — | Not used |
The Positions That Actually Matter When You Are Diagnosing
Most of a fuse chart is reference. A few positions tell you where to look first.
The high-current end
F49 at 200 A is the battery main fuse — the largest single rating in either box. F50 at 70 A is CEPS, the electric power steering supply. If one of these has let go you are not looking at a worn component, you are looking at a short or a dead short to ground that took the fuse out with it.
The PTC heaters
Three positions feed the cabin PTC heaters: PTC1 at 30 A (F18), PTC2 at 60 A (F16), PTC3 at 60 A (F1). In a cold climate these are the heaviest ongoing loads in the car, and a no-heat complaint that is not a coolant problem often lands here. Note that F18 is only 30 A while F16 and F1 are 60 A — if you are chasing an imbalance across the three, that is a designed difference, not a fault.
ESC appears three times
F30 (60 A), F42 (5 A) and F44 (60 A) are all listed against ESC, plus a separate 5 A EPS at F41. A warning-light diagnosis on the braking side needs all of these checked; pulling only the big one will miss a control-side fault.
HV all-in-one controller is fed twice
Both F9 and F33 at 15 A protect the HV all-in-one controller. Two feeds to the same module is normal in a redundant layout, but it means a single blown fuse will not necessarily kill the module — and a module that is dead will not necessarily show a blown fuse.
Components that appear in both boxes
Several circuits are split across the two fuse boxes, and this trips people up:
- ADAS — F39 (5 A) under-hood, position 10 (10 A) on the dashboard.
- Instrument cluster — F36 (5 A) under-hood, position 05 (5 A) on the dashboard.
- Towing power supply — F31 (20 A) under-hood, position 02 (30 A) on the dashboard.
- Rear body control module — F35 (5 A) under-hood, positions 12 and 13 (30 A each) on the dashboard.
When a module is completely dead rather than acting up, check both boxes before condemning it.
The Warning BYD Attaches to This Table
The handbook carries a reminder that matters more than the table itself: fuse amperage can vary across vehicle configurations — the infotainment system is the example BYD gives — and maintenance and replacement must be based on the actual configuration of the vehicle.
So treat this chart as the map, not the destination. Read the label on the car’s own fuse box lid before you fit a replacement, especially on a trim level or market variant that differs from the handbook edition. Fitting a higher-rated fuse because “the book says 20” when the car was built with 15 is how a protected circuit becomes an unprotected one.
A Short Field Note on Diagnosis
Fuses are checks, but they are poor diagnostics on their own. A fuse that keeps blowing is a symptom — something downstream is drawing more than the circuit was designed for, or a harness has rubbed through. Replacing the fuse and handing the car back is the pattern that produces comebacks.
The useful sequence is: identify which circuit is dead, confirm which box and position protects it, verify the fuse by continuity rather than by eye, and then decide whether the fault is the load or the wiring. On a Dolphin specifically the cooling water pump (F13, 10 A) and the integrated thermal management module (F15, 7.5 A) are worth knowing by heart, because a blown fuse there looks like a cooling fault on the scan tool and sends people chasing the wrong system.
Stuck on a Fault Code or a Locked Module?
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Companion Pages: Putting These Documents to Work
The manuals above are the source. These pages are the extracted, workshop-ready versions of what is inside them.
- BYD high voltage shutdown procedure — Before touching anything on the high-voltage side — both disable methods, the 60-second de-energising window, and the fire and submersion procedures.
- BYD battery fire and thermal runaway response — A flooded or collision-damaged car arrives — the 24-hour cooling figure, the 45-minute release window, the 15 m isolation distance, and the four methods BYD rules out.
- BYD coolant type and capacity — Booking a cooling job — the published specification and fill volume for all ten current models, and which ones run two circuits.
- BYD warning light meanings — A customer reports “a light came on” — which lamps mean stop now, which mean book it in, and the electric-only symbols.
- BYD Atto 3 service schedule — Taking a service booking — every interval, the four items with independent replacement cycles, and the severe-duty tightening.
Source
Compiled from the official BYD Dolphin Owner’s Handbook (English edition, 2023), maintenance section — under-hood PDB nameplate and dashboard PDB nameplate, including the manufacturer’s configuration-variance reminder. Positions and ratings are reproduced as published; confirm against the vehicle’s own fuse box label before replacement.